An Introduction to Catholic Oxfordshire

Wednesday, 15 August

For our first full day in Oxford, we took a spin around Ring Road to visit some significant sites outside the main city centre. Our first stop was The Kilns, home of C.S. Lewis. Our tour guide, Rich (from California!), told us all about Lewis' personal life, especially as related to his brother, Warnie, and his wife, Joy. The original house fell into disrepair and hideous redecoration before becoming the restoration project of a couple Americans (thank you, American Lewis appreciators!). We saw the bedroom from which Lewis looked out the window at a pond and forest and wrote the Chronicles of Narnia. We also found out that Jack and Warnie had parallel conversions. In the library, we saw the original sign for the Eagle and Child pub. Before leaving the Kilns, Laurie, Jonathan, and I ran in the rain to the Arch Bench by the duck pond, where Lewis and Tolkien frequently sat together.

Welcome to The Kilns!

 

[It's not THE wardrobe]

The window in Lewis' study, out of which he could see the pond and forest - Narnia inspiration.

Original Eagle and Child sign!

The duck pond behind the house

The arch bench, where Lewis and Tolkien sat.

Next, we braved the rain and went to Headington Parish, the home church and burial site of C.S. Lewis. We sang a Salve Regina at Lewis' grave, then looked at the Narnia window inside the church.

Lewis' grave at Headington.

Headington parish church - where Lewis worshipped.

Close-up of Narnia window

The Narnia window!

Our third stop was the retreat centre of Littlemore, to which Bl. John Henry Cardinal Newman retired after resigning from his high position in the Anglican Church in Oxford. We saw some of Newman's personal letters and belongings, including the writing desk upon which he wrote On the Development of Christian Doctrine, and then used as the altar for the Mass at which he was received into the Catholic Church. A sister of Spiritual Family The Work told us all about Newman's life, particularly his conversion process. It was during this talk that we all really started to see the crazy connections between the prominent figures of Catholic Oxford. Turns out that Newman received Gerard Manley Hopkins, priest and poet, into the Church, and founded a Catholic college in Dublin, where Hopkins was later assigned. Before leaving Littlemore, I spent time in Newman's room and in Adoration.

Welcome to Littlemore!

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Newman's Writing Desk

Newman's room at Littlemore - right next to the chapel.

The Library at Littlemore

On the way back to Oxford, we stopped at Wolvercote to pay our respects at J.R.R. Tolkien's grave. Tolkien is buried with his wife, Edith; "Beren and Luthien" is inscribed upon the gravestone. The grave site is decorated with a wide assortment of trinkets left by fans and admirers.

Grave of John and Edith Tolkien

Back in Oxford, we attended the Solemn High Mass for the Feast of the Assumption at the Oxford Oratory. It was one of the most beautiful Masses I have ever participated in. After Mass, our group met Mr. Walter Hooper, secretary and friend of C.S. Lewis - turns out he is a parishioner of the Oratory. Following Mass, we celebrated Laurie's birthday with dinner, beer, and Pimms at the Turf Tavern.